Classic Triangle Travel - "Road Trip" version
By Jay Gordon
Remember when "triangle fares" were introduced? They provided discount air fares that allowed passengers to go to one city and return from another -- with a link between the two cities included in the special fare. This concept can also be useful as we plan road trips throughout Northern California. A favorite example applies if you're interested in visiting Mendocino County from the San Francisco Bay Area and want to explore both the inland and coastal areas. You don't have to take two separate trips. You can see a lot in a long day. A weekend (or longer) is probably smarter. So, I'll talk about food and lodging along the way and let you decide what suits your interests.
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Ardella's Kitchen - 77 S Main St, Willits. |
Take Highway 101 North across the Golden Gate Bridge. If you drive to the first stoplight, you've reached Willits. Okay, it's 135 miles, but -- since Willits doesn't yet have a bypass -- Highway 101 runs through this rural town of 5,000 people. If you like to pile people in the car and head out without any rigid itinerary, there are lots of places along the way for spontaneous decisions. I'll share with you some of my favorites and tell you where to find more information. This will be highly idiosyncratic since it reflects my personal interests and tastes, but it should still be helpful. There will also be abundant optional recommendations, so you will end up with lots of opportunities to customize your trip.
Along the way you will pass through Marin and Sonoma Counties, which really should be a separate trip -- unless you have days to explore the area. As you meander up scenic Highway 101, you’re getting used to the rolling hills, vineyards, and mountains in the distance. Hopland is about 100 miles and 1.5 hour of driving from San Francisco. (Depending on where you start and how you drive.) If you want to stop for breakfast (you DID get an early start, right?), the Bluebird Cafe is a good choice. 13340 S Highway 101. (707) 744-1633. Also downtown, winery Brutocao's Schoolhouse Plaza. 13500 S. Highway 101, (707) 744-2000.
On Highway 101, next possible detour is Ukiah, less than 15 miles north. This is the county seat for Mendocino County. It's a charming town with lots of restaurants and hotels. If you like hearty pub food, try Ukiah Brewing Co., 102 S State St, Ukiah, 95482 - (707) 468-5898. Just a few minutes from the freeway. If you need an overnight stay when passing through Ukiah, a comfortable, friendly place is the Hampton Inn, also a short detour from the highway. It's at 1160 Airport Park Blvd. (707) 462-6555. For a comprehensive list of places to stay in Mendocino County, visit www.gomendo.com. (It has all the information you'll need for a visit to the area.)
The Skunk Train
Twenty-three miles farther north is Willits, home of the fabled Skunk Train and legendary racehorse Seabiscuit. Learn all about the train and its ride through the redwoods to the coast at http://www.skunktrain.com/. It operates seasonally, so be sure to check for schedules. There are short excursion trips available as well as trips to Ft. Bragg that require an overnight stay before returning. Information on walking tours of Ridgewood Ranch that tell you all about Seabiscuit: http://www.willits.org/seabiscuit2.htm. Willits has a skate park for the kids: http://www.city-data.com/picfilesv/picv14618.php. The Mendocino County Museum has interesting exhibits reflecting the history and culture of the area: http://www.co.mendocino.ca.us/museum/exhibit.html. It also connects to the Roots of Motive Power exhibit, with historic train car exhibits and information about the history of North Coast logging: http://www.rootsofmotivepower.com/.
The Willits Community Theatre in downtown Willits has year-round live entertainment of impressive quality. www.allaboutwct.org has the schedule and ticket information. (Order by phone and pay by credit card if you like.) For more information about what's happening in Willits, check out the Chamber of Commerce website: www.willits.org. Willits is home to one of the North Bay's most impressive art and jewelry emporiums, Blue Sky Gallery: http://blueskygallery.com/.
We have a number of delightful restaurants in Willits, but I'll mention a few I’ve always enjoyed. For Mexican food, a consistent favorite is El Mexicano. 166 S Main St, (707) 459-5702. You’ll get fine service from all the wait staff, but my personal favorite is Emilio. For Chinese food that rivals what you'll find anywhere, try Anna's Asia House. Just a block off Main St. at 47 E. Mendocino Ave. (707) 459-608. You’ll find great Thai Food at Al’s Redwood Room, 207 S. Main St. (707) 459-2444.
A favorite lunch place for soups, salads, and incomparable sandwiches is Loose Caboose, 10 Wood St., just off Main St. from the Book Juggler. (707) 459-1434. Ardella’s Downtown Diner is a fixture for locals wanting a gourmet breakfast or lunch in a relaxed atmosphere (TU-SU). They’re at 77 South Main St. Phone: 707-459-6577.
We hope you spend the night. There are lots of familiar names to choose from for good value for a night's stay. For something a little special, there are two places to check out. Baechtel Creek Inn & Day Spa has three categories of rooms so you can choose from economical to splurge. Sweet creekside location south of town. Great staff.
http://www.baechtelcreekinn.com/ for more information. For an elegant B&B experience, my personal favorite is Beside Still Waters Farm Bed & Breakfast. A short, scenic drive from downtown, it's at 30901 Sherwood Rd. (707) 984-6130 or (877) 230-2171. http://www.besidestillwatersfarm.com/.
The drive to the Mendocino Coast from Willits is from downtown Willits (at the Safeway intersection) in the shadow of the Willits Arch. It's a picturesque 33-miles along Highway 20 that usually takes about an hour. Can we spell "curves," boys and girls?
When you get to Highway 1 on the coast, you can turn right to Ft. Bragg or turn left to the village of Mendocino. If you have time,
Ft. Bragg is a lovely place to stroll -- lots of galleries and shops. Its main bragging right may be the Mendo Bistro restaurant. http://www.mendobistro.com/ has all the information. Great fresh food, prepared with imagination. Adorable wait staff. Check out "Chocolate Indecision," a wintertime dessert that may make all others pale. Four mini-desserts featuring chocolate are offered on a square plate. Your response will be mimic the soundtrack from an “X”-rated movie. Guaranteed!
Back on the road south to the village of Mendocino, enjoy ten miles of spectacular oceanside scenery with several opportunities to stop and let your jaw drop at the stunning beauty of it all.
http://www.mendocino.com has lots of information about what to see, where to dine, where to stay. http://gomendo.com also has links to hotels for reservations as well as a calendar of events and general information. A hotel where I’ve stayed – and which I can enthusiastically recommend – is the Mendocino Hotel, which is conveniently downtown. Easy walking distance to delightful shops and restaurants. http://www.mendocinohotel.com for more information.
I like to dine there, one of the options being to eat in the small lobby area with a fireplace, sofas, and high-backed chairs. Very clubby. The meatloaf and garlic potatoes are “to die for.” Recommended to me by the head of the Mendocino County Film office, Debra DeGraw, who knows a thing or two about fine dining.
Fensalden Inn
There is an abundance of attractive B&B places along the coast as you head south from Mendocino. My personal favorite is Fensalden. Can that lady cook! http://www.fensalden.com/.
There are many full-service hotels along the coast that are hugely popular. I’ve stayed at the Little River Inn several times and threatened they would need a crowbar to make me leave. Hasn’t happened so far, but they have lovely rooms with fireplaces and ocean views, a nice restaurant and bar, meeting facilities, etc. http://www.littleriverinn.com/.
For more information about the North Coast area, especially Fort Bragg and Mendocino, visit http://www.mendocinocoast.com.
As you continue south on scenic Highway 1, most people return to the Bay Area by taking Highway 128 to Cloverdale, then south on Highway 101. Before you make that decision, especially if you are reluctant to leave the magnificent coastal views, continue to Gualala, home to the incomparable Gualala Arts Center. |
Gualala Arts Center |
The center, a 15,000 square foot masterpiece design by Paul Styskal, is enhanced by its lavish 11-acre forest setting adjacent to the Gualala River. It includes an art gallery, classrooms, an auditorium, and an outdoor amphitheater. It is, itself, an exquisite piece of art. Learn more about the Gualala Arts Center and their current exhibits at: www.gualalaarts.org.
Learn more about the fascinating south coast of Mendocino County at www.redwoodcoastchamber.com. Then, if you prefer to return to the Bay Area via the longer, scenic route through the coastal area of Sonoma County, visit www.sonomacountytravelguide.com for more ideas to keep you in the North Bay.
If you decide to save the longer coastal route for another trip, don’t despair that your road trip is over. Along Highway 128 you’ll have a chance to stop at two of the county’s most prestigious wineries: Navarro and Husch. These are small family owned and operated wineries in the Anderson Valley with exquisite wines. Check out www.navarrowine.com/main.php and http://huschvineyards.com/ for more information. If you’re lucky, you may have a chance to taste wines that are made in such small quantities they are only available locally. Bragging rights!
Mendocino County truly is “another time, another pace.” The best part is you set the pace. You can be entertained for a day or a lifetime. As well as anything in between.
About the author:
Jay Gordon has visited Mendocino County for more than forty years and has lived there for more than ten.
